Tresor Yakro

Originally, just as with movies, all film for still photography was black-and-white or sepia. It wasnt until the mid-20th century that color photography became feasible for the masses. Obviously color photography is now open to anyone, and given that we see the world in color, why would we want to deliberately remove color from our photographs?

This question is unique in that it brings about the answer of identifying when to take a black and white photograph or when to remove color from a photograph using an editing program such as Photoshop.

The answer to the above question is that we would want to remove color from a photograph in order to simplify it; to get rid of distracting information so that we can concentrate better on something else. In this its no different from blurring the background of a portrait or from framing a photo in such a way that distracting elements are out of the frame.

Now that we have answered the why to our question, let’s explore the when, or more precisely, the three main situations one might wish to remove color from a photo.

# Portraits - In color portraits, facial flaws such as blemishes, skin discoloration, red nose and so on, are very distracting to the viewer. By removing or stripping the photo of color, the viewer can then concentrate on the emotions, personality and life of the person portrayed in the image.

# Fine Art Abstract Photography

Abstract Fine Art Photography is the art of capturing shapes and patterns. Using color photography for this art form defeats what the photographer is trying to accomplish as color distracts from the main subject.

Note that black-and-white photographs are generally more tolerant of contrast, so fine art photographers will often strip out color from their photographs and then ramp up the contrast (again, using an image editing program).

# Whenever the photo is more or less monochromatic anyway

This final category is something of a catchall. While the main use of black-and-white is to remove something distracting from a photo, its also a good idea to try converting a photo to black-and-white when the photo really has few bright colors anyway. Another way of looking at this is to say that just as color is distracting, a washed-out lack of color is also somewhat distracting.

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With so many different digital cameras to choose from it is hard to decide which digital camera is right for you. You have to decide if you want a SLR camera or a point and shoot camera. Then you have to decide what print quality you want and the megapixels.

You have to choose between an easy to use camera and a camera that takes some skill. You need to decide which camera will have the best battery life as well as what the next shot delay is for shooting. Then you want to have image stabilization for optical or digital zoom.

A lot of photo enthusiasts find the SLR cameras as the best digital cameras. The mentioned feature of SLRs allows photographers to stick to a single lens which results to speedier work.

If you do not understand the terminology of the digital camera, you will need to look up the terms in a digital camera glossary before you can make any decisions. This is a scary thought for many people who are looking to upgrade from a film camera to a digital camera. The list goes on. There are over a thousand digital cameras to choose.

Deciding which digital camera is right for you will depend on the performance ratings, reliability, and specifications. This does not have to be as hard as it sounds when you are looking for a digital camera.

Many amateur photographers don’t know what actually makes a picture look so great. It’s not the number of pixels but the skill of the person pressing the button. Don’t get me wrong, the camera and its lens play a great role but that won’t do you any good if you don’t know how to adjust the settings, to set the scene and to take the actual picture.

You will find out what each camera has to offer, what other users say about the camera and if it is really worth the money. This is always a help when looking for the right digital camera.

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So, you’ve decided to make the jump from simple point and shoot cameras into the realm of SLR photography. If you’ve done any sort of research, your mind and eyeballs are probably reeling from an overload of information.

There are literally thousands of digital cameras on the market, in all shapes in sizes. Having a specific budget in mind can greatly narrow down your list to a manageable size.

Digital cameras seem to be getting smaller and smaller every year. To some that seems great, because it makes them very portable, and easy to take with you. For others, the small size can make handling the camera and taking pictures cumbersome. Small buttons, small grips and big hands don’t necessarily go very well together.

Those same trends have have also pushed manufactures and retail establishments to be highly competitive in both design and pricing. That’s something that can only benefit the consumer. In a couple of ways actually. Not only do you have a bevy of choices, but the vast majority of those SLR choices are really good cameras. Long story short . . . it’s hard to go wrong in this category.

I’ll make it even simpler for you. Pick any one of the following three digital SLR cameras, and you won’t be disappointed. They are the Canon Digital Rebel XTi, the Nikon D40, and the Olympus Evolt E510.

As of this writing, the 10 megapixels flavors for these cameras are all available for about $600. That includes a basic kit lens. That feels like highway robbery, compared to the $1000 I paid for a good point and shoot digital just a few years back.

Are you a point and shooter, or a tweak freak. In other words, would the default settings be good enough for your pictures. If the terms shutter speed, and ISO sound Greek, then just check point and shoot, and move on.

Every photographer takes pictures for different reasons, values different attributes in the finished pictures, and handles a camera differently. And so will you. A good hands-on exercise before making your final selection, would be to go to a speciality camera store with lots of models on hand, during a non busy time. Try out as many models as you can, taking pictures of people, things, shadows, and any odd lighting areas of the store you can.

Try different lenses to. Have lots of questions for the sales people, but take their answers with a grain of salt. They are sales people after all. The actual experience of handling and using the camera should be your final factor in making your decision.

Currently going for about $1200 just for the camera body, so be sure to save room in the budget for lenses (probably $1500 with a basic lens). Unless you plan on changing careers, and becoming a professional photographer, this should be the last camera you’ll ever buy. The only real limit to taking amazing pictures with this camera is the photographer and of course his/her budget for new lenses.

So there you go, a good starting base with three canon cameras that should suit the novice, semi-pro, or full blown professional categories. Once you’ve picked one as a reference point, a closer look at some similar digital cameras would be in order. The more informed you are, the happier you’ll be with your next camera, and the photographs you take with it.

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I have always liked spy toys, but covert cameras have always been my favorite. There is something about a hidden camera that is just so captivating to anyone who grew up during the Cold War. Nowadays, photographic evidence doesn’t mean quite as much as it used to ” photos can be convincingly doctored ” but there was a time when a picture was the most definite kind of proof you could get.

Covert surveillance cameras were the best weapon of law enforcement to catch dangerous fugitives or intercept spies in the midst of their dirty deeds. A covert camera could be used to bring back nuclear secrets from Russia or provide convincing evidence that a prisoner of war was still alive after being held for months.

Although some of the glamor around covert cameras has died down, the cameras themselves are better than ever. Things which were unthinkable or at least difficult to imagine 20 years ago are now a part of every day reality. You can have cameras the size of a tie pin that can get reasonably good resolution ” at least at close range. Slightly larger covert cameras can be smuggled around as lipstick, pens, or flashlights. You could even hide one in your shoe if you wanted to. Even video cameras can be made pretty tiny. I have seen covert cameras small enough to fit on a small radio controlled airplane. With the impressive mini cameras available on the consumer market, who knows what the government can do.

Of course miniaturization isn’t everything nowadays. We’ve proven that we can get covert cameras very small, but sometimes a much more normally sized camera will do quite well. A hidden camera doesn’t need to be particularly tiny if you can conceal it properly. Through camouflage, skillful placement, and proper lighting, a fairly large covert camera can go undetected for months or even years.

Even so, to me there is nothing more secure than a covert camera hidden in plain sight. Covert cameras can be disguised as pretty much anything. Your camera could be a pack of cigarettes, your lighter, or even the frame on the side of your glasses. The last one is worthy of consideration because it provides a very convenient way to aim the camera. If you can take a picture just by looking at something, your secret spying is likely to go completely unnoticed. Despite the fact that these secret cameras don’t always work as well as in the movies, quite often they give you uncanny good results. It’s all a matter of picking out the right gear, positioning it in the right way, and making sure you have the one thing that cameras will always need ” light.

Photography Photography

Photography is a lot of work and only those with passion and drive can win against the challenges. Of course, taking pictures isnt just taking your camera and then youre done for the day. Common picture taking can be greatly improved by more than just the use of the camera, it is in fact a harmony of works from the other components when you purchase that gadget and they are what we call your digital camera accessories.

Camera Case or Bag

Perhaps the accessory that gets the least respect by amateur photographers is a carrying case or bag. Ironically, this is the easiest way to not only protect your investment but to also bring along all the spare parts you may or may not need on that particular day. With extra pockets, slots and a good solid strap, you can make sure you havent left anything behind and can still keep your hands free during mountain trekking or visiting places and tourist destinations.

Tripods

Tripods are commonly used to minimize tremor associated with night shots, long zooms or professional portraits where as much time is spent organizing the audience rather than simply capturing a scene. For the budget- or space-conscious, buy a fist-sized beanbag or hacky sack and bring it with you ” it makes a very flexible mini-tripod. The moldable shape and portability make it the perfect must-have accessory

Extra Lenses

Lenses are often overlooked by all but professionals and serious hobbyists, but they do have applications with the lucky owner whose camera allows for those upgrades. Filters are inserted in front of the lens itself and distort or affect the light coming through to the cameras light sensor. A polarizing filter, or polarizer, for example, filters light as it angles further away from straight ahead, and as a result gives truer tones to objects in its field of vision - which really helps to take the glare off of sunny days.

Other

When traveling or just heading away from home for an afternoon, plan on having a travel pack of accessories: additional batteries or a charger in case your camera battery dies on you, an external flash, and an extra memory card/stick or two in case you run out of room.

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It’s sad, but most people don’t care about photography enough to it was not invented in the 1800s. That’s pure nonsense. I mean, in a sense, theyve got a point, if we take silver nitrate into consideration. But some of the real breakthroughs in 21st Century photography were created in the 9th Century. Take a moment and wrap that around your head. People were using photographic technique and processes more than 2,000 years ago!

Let’s get down to brass tacks and talk ” no big whoop ” about a few of these early photographic pioneers. The first camera we can pinpoint in history belonged to Ibn al Haytham (965-1040). He used a rudimentary pinhole camera ” but it worked! We think. The discovery of silver nitrate by Albertus Magnus (1206-1280) set the stage for later use of silver chloride. In 1694, the photochemical effect of light on chemicals was described in great detail (and in German) by Wilhelm Homberg.

Then, it happened, that in 1826, Nicephore Niepce took the first enduring photograph. His breakthrough dovetailed to some degree (and morbidly) with the American Civil War later on. The Civil War brought photography to the masses. Soon Johnny Rebel and Union Boys were clambering to get their pictures taken as keepsakes for their wives and mothers and sweethearts.

As the photographic process evolved, more and more careers were made available to thousands of curious people across the globe. Newspapers constantly need the, magazine were born because of them, and the phenomena of the family portrait was born. Even now, as the film that once fueled the medium is phased out, there is still a need for men and women who are skill in the art of photography, regardless of whether or not its digitally based.

Now is the time for anyone with the passion for the captured image to get serious and get educated. Even for those of you who are really, really talented, remember talent can take you most of the way, but not all the way. At lest, thats what I keep hearing. A solid education can make the shadows go away and expose you to a world of photographic arcana. Photography takes all and celebrates few. Give yourself every advantage.

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For those of you who don’t already know, Photoshop has these nifty little features called Actions. Now, these actions can be used for many things, including the creation of beautiful and eye catching effects, maximizing your productivity, or simply to carry out the tedious and mundane tasks that you just doesn’t feel like doing.

I recently had the pleasure of a little thing called Batch Processing. I’m a dedicated designer, but there was no way I was going sit in front of my computer for hours changing the Hue/Saturation for every single image for my forum. What is Batch Processing, you say? Well, it’s something that processes a batch,and I’m going to show you how to do it.

When creating an action, you need it to produce the same one result. Let’s imagine an example of changing the Hue/Saturation in 100+ photos from bright red to a rose tone. You might need an action to serve another purpose, but let’s stick to this Hue/Saturation idea for this tutorial. Now pick a small image such as an icon and we’ll continue.

Now go to Window - Actions and make sure it that it is checked. If it is, you should see a tab in the Layers Palette labeled Actions.

Click on the arrow button to enter the Actions menu and then “new Set.” This will create a folder for your newly created action (the folder is not mandatory, but it does help with organization.)

Go back to the Actions menu and select “New Action.” I’ll give you three guesses as to what this does. Now, before recording an action you need to figure out the steps you’ll need to take and the order in which you’ll need to take them. Since this is a pretty simple action you can do this is your sleep eventually.

Next comes recording. Begin by clicking on the little circle icon in between the square and the triangle at the bottom of the palette. Once that is selected everything you do in Photoshop will be recorded until the end of action. If you do the wrong step no worries, simply stop the action by clicking the square icon and return to your last step.

For my action, the first thing I need to do is change the Mode of the image to RGB, since .gif files are saved in Index mode which don’t take too kindly to colorization. So with the action recording, go to Image - Mode - RGB. Now take a look at your Actions palette, it should look like this:

Next, we’ll have to strip the image of it’s current color to make adding our (my) own color easier to apply, so go to Image - Adjustment - Desaturate.

There will be a naked grey image left to which we need to add some color. While still recording your action, go to Image - Adjustments - Hue/Saturation. I keep the rose color settings saved in a .ahu (Hue/Saturation) file already so all I have to do is press Load and select Rose.ahu, but you can achieve this color by using the sliders.

Finally, we save it for the web. Check that your action is still recording and go to File - Save For the Web and set your file type and optimization settings. I use the customary GIF settings. Choose the destination directory and save.

You can now stop recording because your Action is complete. Now we will perform a Batch Process to put your Action into effect. This will take all the images in a specified directory and incorporate the changes recorded in the Action.

Go to File - Automate - Batch and make sure the name of the Action Set you just created is in the first dropdown list and the name of the Action is in the second. Set the third dropdown box (next to Source) to Folder and use the Choose button to find your duplicated or created folder of images. For destination, you can either leave it set to it’s default “None” to have the action applied and saved in the source folder, or save the “actionized” images into a separate folder. Once you have everything configured to your liking, click OK.

The hard part of the job is now done for you! All that is left is to relax and watch your pictures color themselves thanks to Actions and Batch Processing.

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A digital camera has almost become the only way to take good pictures these days, but after having acquired the basic camera you will need to ask yourself if you need picture-improving accessories to go with it, and if yes, how to select them.

And if you are a beginner with a strong interest in photography, you should look even more into the various extras, accessories and tools that are available. Using them will improve your technique, maybe to the point where you will be able to turn your hobby into a new occupation.

Regardless of whether photography is a profession or a pastime for you, you will find that digital camera accessories are not only for the experts, but that there are extras available even for the most basic compact camera. Even some cell phones with cameras have dedicated accessory lines!

Although the variety of camera accessories is great, some are more exotic and meant mainly for pros. But certain accessories are of great use to everyone. Here are the most common ones:

The first probable investment for your digital camera will probably be the camera bag, which is where you place all the equipment that you need when you are location shooting but also when you are traveling, and it would also serve as your basic case where all your photography equipment is stored and protected. It is also one of the most inexpensive accessories that you may ever buy and add to this is that they enable you carry and protect the expensive equipment that you carry around.

Camera bags come in many different shapes, sizes and colors. While you may also carry your camera in a normal bag it makes sense to invest in a specialized bag as it’s purpose-made and often padded.

Somewhat less ubiquitous than bags, but just as useful, are camera tripods. This item allows you to take better pictures in low light conditions, to take long exposition photos, and to brace your camera more solidly than if you were just holding it. Tripods may seem like a pain to carry around, but most for them are foldable and many are made out of very light and durable aluminum alloys.

When you buy a tripod, you should definitely make sure that the camera attachment fits your brand, as that’s not always the case. Steadier shots and a better result make the camera tripod the most important digital camera accessory for many photographers.

The next most useful kind of digital camera accessories are probably those who prolong your picture-taking. Both extra batteries and storage cards fall into these categories. Batteries allow you to take pictures for longer without recharging the camera and are fundamental in faraway locales, while extra storage cards are great for sports photography, when you will need to take a whole lot of pictures.

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Professional or amateur, the Nikon D90 is a great fit for either. Nikon has taken flaws, from all other cameras, and improved on these features throughout the years. This has brought them to the D90, which offers numerous features, for consumers, in addition to brand new technology never been seen in a camera. The D90 is not as compact as a point-and-shoot camera, nor is it as robust as a professional camera, but it gets the job done with surprising results.

Measuring in at 5.2-inches x 4.1-inches x 3.0-inches, this is nowhere near a compact, pocket size, point-and-shoot camera. Nor is it as large and bulky as many professional cameras. Regardless of size, the curvy design makes the camera fit nicely in the palm of your hand. The D90 was designed ergonomically as all buttons, and functions, are easily reached with the use of one hand.

Nikon has dramatically improved the user interface, from previous models. Navigation and additional features are easy to find and maneuver. Image re-touching can be done directly in the camera, and is easy enough for an amateur to master. Re-touching features include RAW development and straightening.

On the back of the camera is a 3.0-inch VGA monitor, which displays over 900,000 colors. The resolution, in concatenation with the technology and coloration, provides consumers with vivid, crisp imagery.

The display also offers 170-degree wide-angle functionality for your viewing pleasure. Viewing and reviewing both video playbacks, and still images has never been more clear. Navigation, through media files, is nearly effortless with a 72-image calendar display. (Calendar display lays images and videos out in chronological order.)

Live View offers consumers a new way of taking pictures and video. With this functionality, users can select from 11 different autofocus modes. Some of these modes are single, dynamic, and face. Each of these focus, in different ways, to provide you with your desired outcome. For spotless images, Nikon implemented sensor cleaning. This functionality automatically removes dust particles, from internal sensors, so there are not spots on images and videos.

Many other features are available on the D90, such as ISO adjustments, shutter time, and coloring enhancements. ISO settings can be adjusted between 200 and 3200; perfect for any lighting atmosphere. Users can capture up to 4.5 fps with just one click. Auto focus, white balance, and exposure can be perfected - automatically - with 3-D Color Matrix Metering II.

Nikons Expeed image processing, along with its 12.9-megapixel CMOS sensor, produce some of the most rich photos that consumers have seen. These two technologies work closely together to provide nothing but vibrant outcomes.

A first, in the world of cameras, is the integration of digital SLR. This technology produces HDTV (720p) quality and allows for the capture of up to 23 frames per second. For the first time ever consumers can capture personal events and share them, with family, in the highest quality possible.

For around $1,000, consumers can get their hands on this professional quality Nikon D90. This digital camera has a great combination of user-friendliness and professional functionality. Anyone who likes to take pictures will enjoy the experience of the D90 along with the vibrant images it produces.

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The spot healing brush made its debut in Photoshop Elements 3, but now an enhanced version of it is available in Photoshop CS2. The spot healing tool is different from the existing patch and healing tools in that it does not require you to make a selection or define a source point before using it.

To begin, open your Photoshop program, then hold down Ctrl-Alt-Shift in Windows or Command-Option-Shift for Mac OS. This restores the default preferences. Click on “Yes,” which resets, and then close the screen. Open an image file inside Photoshop, then make a duplicate layer to work on. This is one of the best habits you can develop for working with Photoshop; once you’re used to editing only on a copy of the original, you will see that it’s easy and worth it.

You can also add new colour stops to an existing gradient by clicking anywhere along the bottom edge of the preview bar. As well as editing colour stops for the gradient to blend between, you can also add different opacity settings to make it fade from solid to transparency. Strike a balance The Gradient Editor automatically places a midpoint between each colour stop to create a smooth linear blend between colours.

Become the king of the keyboard by discovering more new shortcuts. Taking advantages of keyboard shortcuts to rapidly access tools in the toolbox. Locating Keyboard Shortcuts. Photoshop is more than happy to give up its secrets A good place to start hunting down keyboard shortcuts is within the Photoshop interface itself. Open the main menu, and take look at a few of the commands. Next to each one you’ll find the relevant keyboard shortcut listed if one is available. Another comprehensive list of shortcuts can be found in the Photoshop Help files. Killer keyboard shortcuts Mac users should treat the [Alt] key as the [Option] key and the [Control] key as the [Command] key

To experiment with advanced Photoshop layering, you’ll need something to work on. So first bring up a photo inside Photoshop, then create another layer with something on it. On the bottom of your Layer Style box, you will find the “Blend If” settings. Choose either gray, red, green or blue inside the drop-down Blend If menu, then use your slider bars to control the opacity of the layer you highlighted or the layer underneath. Dragging the “white” slider left will diminish the whites or highlights, and the layer underneath will show through. You will quickly see how blending each color affects the image. You can use this versatile feature, for example, to replace a washed-out sky with a nice blue sky, blending the transparency to a gnat’s eyebrow.

Hoping to get a jump on Google and other competitors, Adobe Systems plans to release a hosted version of its popular Photoshop image-editing application within six months, the company’s chief executive said Tuesday. The online service is part of a larger move to introduce ad-supported online services to complement its existing products and broaden the company reach into the consumer market, Adobe CEO Bruce Chizen told CNET News.com. Chizen said Adobe laid the foundation for a hosted Photoshop product with Adobe Remix, a Web-based video-editing tool it offers through the PhotoBucket media-sharing site.

Just knowing the basics can do wonders. Start with your “Auto Color” command. (Click “Image,” “Adjustments,” then “Auto Color” from the top menu.) Photoshop has configured the Auto Color tool to transform photos to preset values, affecting the overall tone and levels of the photograph. After that you will probably want to enhance your photo further. Photoshop gives you a cornucopia of options for endlessly fiddling with your pictures. Try your “Levels” button (click “Image,” “Adjustments,” then “Levels”). A dialog box pops up labeled Levels. In it you can use the top slider bar to control the brightness of shadows, midtones and highlights. The bottom slider bar affects your overall output levels. You should get your levels the way you want them before you move on to directly transform colors. You can also correct your brightness levels using “Curves,” in the same menu. Experiment with it and you’ll see how it works.

Photography Photography